Molino’s does contemporary Mexican the right way

Chipotle enchiladas with grilled veggies and Albondigas soup from Molino’s Mexican Cuisine at 1064 N. Waco. Molino’s has offered traditional and contemporary cuisine for five years.

Tucked away in a strip mall near the intersection at 13th Street and N. Waco, Molino’s Mexican Cuisine is a Latin gem that can’t be missed.

A little out of the way and a little out of my budget, Molino’s still offers some tasty dishes. The new restaurant – open for nearly five months now – boasts its “contemporary” meals. And contemporary is right.

From the outside, Molino’s looks like any other hole-in-the-wall. However, I was quickly taken aback as soon as I stepped inside the lobby. Granite tabletops, a neutral, rocky front counter and warm paint and lighting give the atmosphere a cozy, yet modern feel.

I found the complementary chips somewhat hard and stale, but that may just be my aversion to corn tortillas. The salsa, however, was a pico-de-gallo sanctuary.

The menu is typical of most Mexican dine-ins, with items like flautas, tamales, carnitas and grilled fish tacos. Dinner prices averaged about $12, while lunches ranged from $6.49 to $9.79.

What sets Molino’s apart is their unique salad sections – like the pineapple mint salad – and their “Molino’s Specialties,” which includes Papa’s Molino’s, a baked potato topped with meat, bacon, salsa, butter and more carbohydrate-heaven.

I kept it safe and ordered the Chipotle Enchiladas, which cost $12.25. Enchiladas have never been my favorite Mexican dish, so I was hoping Molino’s would change my view about the smothered tortillas.

It was so-so. I chose chicken as my meat, and chicken is what I got: loads of shredded meat, full of flavor, but nothing else. Thankfully, I picked the grilled veggies as a side, so I was able to combine the two into a pretty tasty duo.

The highlight of my Molino’s experience was my second side: the Albóndigas, a meatball soup. It was beef broth, potatoes, rice, carrots and zucchini, which put Albóndigas on the list of one of my favorite soups of all time.

Besides the soup, I was wishing I had ordered a more unique menu item, like the pineapple mint salad or their specialty nachos.

So, if you are willing to drive a little out of the way to N. Waco St., go for the cheaper lunch, and step outside of your taste palate for Molino’s contemporary, unique dishes, because I’m still not convinced on the enchiladas.